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November 2000 Issue

Thanksgiving Turkey Basics and Recipes

By Joni Schockett

It's hard to believe that Thanksgiving is next week. I could swear we just had that great Labor Day barbecue. Can it be that the kids have really been in school for over two months? Wow! Time seems to zoom by faster and faster every year. Well, the frost on the windshield this morning says it's time to start thinking about "Turkey Day" as my kids call it, so let's begin with "Everything You Ever Wanted to Know About Turkey."

There are a lot of heated debates going on at this time of year over "frozen" or "fresh," high cooking temperatures or low, a big turkey or two small ones, and what exactly is the best method of carving? So here's my two cents worth for good measure on these timely issues.

But, before we get started, I thought I'd just say a word or two about safe food handling. I have recently heard people say that Salmonella is "never" found in Kosher poultry. This is not true. Salmonella is an equal opportunity bacteria, so be careful when handling the turkey. It may sound basic, but a bad case of Salmonella is no laughing matter, and food safety has to be at the forefront of everyone's mind as the holiday approaches.

Frozen vs. Fresh:

Buying a frozen or a fresh turkey is purely a matter of taste, convenience and budget. A fresh turkey may cost up to 3 times the amount you will spend on a frozen turkey that's on sale. That can amount to a pretty substantial sum of money if you're talking about a 20 or 25 pound turkey! As far as taste is concerned, I feel that a fresh turkey is absolutely delicious, but I also use frozen turkey breasts during the year and they are fine. No clear-cut winner here, so take your choice and enjoy.

Small vs. Large Turkey:

Many people think that a large turkey will be tough and gamy tasting. I have cooked a 26-pound turkey that was delectably moist and tender. I have also had the same result with 12 pounders. So, no clear victory here either. Traditional rule of thumb is to allow about 1.5 pounds per person, less for small children (and double for teenage boys). This will allow for leftovers.

Safe Handling At Home:

A frozen bird should be defrosted in the refrigerator. Place it on an otherwise empty shelf and put a plate underneath to catch any juices. It will take about two or three days to completely defrost a large turkey, so make sure you leave enough time. Cooking a frozen turkey can result in dryness and uneven hot and cold spots. A fresh turkey should be placed in the coldest part of the refrigerator in its original packing. Again, place a plate underneath to catch any drippings and try to put it on an empty shelf. A fresh turkey will only stay in a home refrigerator for about one or, at the most, two days, so plan to pick yours up as close to Thursday as possible.

Just prior to cooking, remove the wrapping and discard it. Pull out any pin feathers and any giblets that may be in the cavity. Rinse the bird inside and out and pat the turkey dry. Place it on a rack in a large roasting pan and get ready to cook.

Roasting Methods:

O.K. Do we cook at 450 or 325? I saw a television show that reported that the best way to cook a turkey was to deep fry it for an hour. The high temperature sears in the juices and keeps the oil from seeping into the bird. According to those who tasted it, this was the best turkey they had ever had. The only problem is that no one I know has a frying vat that can hold 3 gallons of oil!!

So, back to hi or low temperature. I roast my turkey, breast side down, at 425 degrees for one hour. I turn it, lower the heat to 325, and cook it for the rest of the time at the lower temperature. This method has never failed, but I'm sure whatever tried and true method you have used will continue to work well. Just make sure that the turkey is cooked to a safe temperature.

If your turkey does not have a pop-up timer, buy an inexpensive instant meat thermometer and check the turkey at the thickest part of the bird, just behind the thigh, pointing the thermometer in towards the body. Make sure the thermometer registers either at the "poultry" section or at 180 degrees.

Carving The Turkey:

If you are lucky, you have this incredible skill that allows you to carve a turkey like an artistic surgeon. Or, if you are even luckier, you have a mate who can do this for you. I have seen countless charts and pictures about proper carving method and I have found that as long as the turkey can be put on a platter in some kind of servable form, your guests will eat it and be thrilled. So don't worry about fancy, expensive carving knives or TV sitcom dads who always carve perfectly. Just be sure to leave a little bit of meat on the bones for those late-night snackers.

Handling Leftovers:

Leftover turkey must be refrigerated within two hours. After that time, bacteria can begin to grow and ruin the leftovers. Cut all the meat off the bones and place it in a shallow pan. Cover tightly with aluminum foil and refrigerate. If you want to save the carcass, wrap it tightly in foil and refrigerate. The leftover turkey should be used within three or four days. Cooked turkey can be frozen. Wrap portions in plastic and aluminum and freeze. Use within a few weeks for the best flavor.

If you are tired of just plain old turkey, here are a few recipes that are a little different.

Roast Turkey With Sweet and Savory Glaze
Preparation Time: 20 minutes

Ingredients
1-10 ounce jar currant, crabapple or apple jelly
1 stick pareve margarine OR
1/3 to 1/2 cup vegetable oil
1/3 cup frozen apple or cranberry juice concentrate (I prefer cranberry)
4 tbsp. chopped fresh tarragon
2 tbsp. chopped shallots
1 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley
pinch cayenne pepper

Melt jelly in a small saucepan. Add the other ingredients and stir until heated through. Loosen the skin from the turkey with your hand and brush 3 tablespoons of the glaze under the skin, on the meat of the turkey. Don't worry if you can't get in too far under the skin. Brush some of the glaze on the skin and roast as you wish. Baste the turkey with the glaze during the last two hours of cooking, basting at least twice during the last hour.

Citrus Glazed Turkey
Preparation Time: 20 minutes

Ingredients
1 jar red currant jelly
1/4 cup vegetable oil
1/3 cup frozen orange juice concentrate
1 tbsp. grated orange zest
1 tbsp. grated lemon zest
1 tbsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/4 cup chopped shallots
OPTIONAL: 1/4 cup orange liqueur

Melt the jelly in a small saucepan over a low heat. Add the rest of the ingredients and heat through. Bast the turkey before cooking and at least twice during the last hour of cooking.

Herb Rubbed Roasted Turkey
Preparation Time: 20 minutes

Ingredients
2 tsp. kosher salt
1 tsp. freshly cracked black pepper
3 tbsp. chopped fresh rosemary
3 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley
3 tbsp. chopped fresh tarragon
1 tbsp. chopped fresh sage
3 tbsp. vegetable oil
2 cloves minced garlic
2 tbsp. vegetable oil for rubbing over the turkey

Mix all the ingredients together except 2 tablespoons of the oil. Rub the turkey with the oil and then rub with half the herb rub. Roast the turkey as you like and rub again about one-half hour before the cooking is complete. I use a new pair of rubber gloves (wash with soap and water first) to avoid burns. If herbs begin to look like they are burning, cover loosely with a foil tent.

Traditional Roast Turkey
Preparation Time: 20 minutes

Ingredients
3 cloves minced garlic
2 tsp. Kosher salt
1 tsp. freshly cracked black pepper
1 tsp. paprika
1 tsp. onion powder
3 tbsp. vegetable oil

Mix the herbs and spices together and set aside in a small bowl or cup. Rub the turkey with the oil, and sprinkle about half the spice mixture over the turkey. Roast, covered with a foil tent. Sprinkle the rest of the spice mixture over the turkey about halfway through the cooking time. Remove the foil for the last half hour of cooking.

FOR ALL THE ABOVE RECIPES: Make sure to place water or broth in the bottom of the roasting pan. Add a cut-up onion, a few celery stalks and a few cut-up carrots. I also add a leek and lots of peeled, uncut garlic cloves. Keep adding broth or water as needed during the roasting time. Baste the turkey with this liquid even if you are using a marinade or glaze. Just be sure to use only the glaze near the end of the cooking time.

Joni lives in Needham, MA with her husband and three lovely children. She co-edited From Soup To Nosh: A Modern Kosher Cookbook and is a really good cook.

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